- Edit (TBD)
Description
Great face climbing with mostly great gear. Almost as good as it's neighbors to the right, Competitive Edge and King Snake, though a bit more exciting. Fairly straightforward and enjoyable climbing to the mini roof then game on. Protection at the roof seems adequate but less than perfect and adds to the committing feeling of getting to the bolt above. Thanks to whom ever replaced the bolt with a new fatty. I was surprised and quite happy to find such a confidence inspiring bolt due to the nature of the rock below and the not so straight forward climbing above. Work out the moves above the bolt that will eventually lead to a positive hold, take a deep breath and continue on easier ground to a stance and gear above. From here, it's fun and run plate climbing to the ledge above. A traverse left ( do not forget about the 2nd) will get you to anchor possibilities.
Location
This route starts to the left of Competitive Edge
https://www.mountainproject.com/route/105899350/competitive-edge
. It is about in the middle of the cliff below an obvious downward pointed roof.
Protection
What you and I carry and place on a route like this will surely be different. This is not Yosemite granite so I tend to take em when I get em and back them up. I also tend to carry and place a lot of Tricams which most won't have. I placed 1 blue Metolius through 1 #3 BD, several stoppers and Tricams. Runners were nice to have. I used my #s 1-3C4s on route so was happy to have my med size Tricams at the anchor you may want at 1 and 2 C4 size for yours.