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Peak Mountain 3

Supreme Seaweed Superhighway

FA EFR, Jesse Schultz, Greg Kay, Adrea Richmond, Audrey Margirier,'19
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

You can approach the route from the other Sea Gods by traversing the ledge or by descending from the first saddle you encounter on the hike down. From the saddle angle left through a notch in the boulders and follow paths angling down and right through the oaks to another boulder notch. Drop down and across one slabby gully then down the second to paths through the oaks. You will be contouring right and down to reach the top of Poseidon. 15 draws if you do it in 3 pitches 22 if you combine one and two.

  1. 113 feet. Multiple cruxes on this with the last one coming just before the ramp to the anchors. 2) 85 feet. The first moves off the ledge are just like the start moves on the ground but easier. It then gets harder and with an awkward (if done wrong) move on to a big ledge. After that crux, you will hand rail up and left on good holds for 20 feet or so then you will want to shake it out as a new fingertip rail traverse ensues. Committing to the moves leads big rewards. 3) 105 feet. move right and up from the belay to the crux 15 feet above. It is a little bouldery and is probably 5.11+/ 12-. Once you reach the horizontal you will need to stand up to clip one of the bolts. Foot jugs will allow you to move 15 feet right to a left angling finger seam. Easier ground leads to a two tiered roof with a hand crack exit then easy ground to the anchors. You can rap the route or descend via the gully.

 Descent: Three rappels with a 70 Meter rope. Because the route makes some major zigs and zags a few chain draws have been left so you more easily reach the belay anchors.

The first two pitches have been lead as one spectacular 180 foot pitch but you need 22 draws to do it. It helps to extend the second and fourth bolts after the first belay. With a 70M rope you will have to rap twice. DO NOT TRY TO LOWER TO THE 1ST PITCH ANCHORS WITH A 70M ROPE. If you have an 80M rope you can lower to the first pitch anchors To reach the first pitch anchors back clip your way with chain draws to the right or you will end up in space. Has some lichen despite many 15  hours of cleaning but it should get better over time. People who can't handle lichen need not apply.

Location

Far left side of Poseidon up the gully.

Protection

Bolts Steel Metolious lower off biners