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Peak Mountain 3

The Black Dahlia

FA Mike Bockino
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

The crux is the big move from the jug and it is a doozy. Big moves on mostly good holds this is a thug climber's dream come true. Route begins matched on underclings and climbs through good crimps to a jug and then huck for your life for an ok sloper right foot up and then SLAP! and SLAP! again, move your right foot up to the top of the jug and huck for the lip. Top out is fairly easy. A neo-classic for sure. The jug at head height has broken since the first ascent and is probably V10 itself from this hold, the bottom into the jug is in the V5-6 range. On the same level of awesomeness as Life, Jitterbug Perfume and Trent's Mom, Black Dahlia is for sure one of the best V10's in Joe's.

Location

This route is up and left about 100-150 yards from the intersection of trails. Keep the boulder cluster on your left as you hike up and there is a large gnarly looking dead tree just behind this the Black Dahlia.

Protection

3-4 pads potential to take a back slap landing from ten feet up so spot carefully.


Routes in Sleeper Area