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Peak Mountain 3

Tooth Fairy

FA RG, DN, 9/92
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Pumpy moves up a corner system that doesn't climb like anything else in the area. The holds are mostly large but the problem is figuring out how to use them. Scramble down from the alcove to reach the first bolt and have your belayer scramble down as well or else you'll suffer from rope drag. Follow some jugs and the corner crack up to the top of the pillar (sling the pillar if you want) and rest up before launching into the downward and right facing corner. Is it a layback? Gaston? Undercling? Figure it out. There is a hidden jug just past the bolt and brings you to the end of the crux. One more trick move lets you stand atop the jug and then up easier ground to the top.

Location

Once you're standing at the Mushroom Wall, scramble down to the left. There is a bolt showing you where to begin. If you fall to the base of the Maple Run wall, then you went too far.

Protection

7 or 8 bolts plus a 2 bolt anchor. Bring a sling for the block or a large cam.