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Peak Mountain 3

Wigglin' Fingies

FA Eli Helmuth, Chris Weidner
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

Wigglin' Fingies climbs the attractive east face of Bookmark Pinnacle via a 50-foot arching flake/crack leading to a thin, clean slab. Carefully traverse left from the base of the "

Cave Route

" (in the descent chimney) to the steep flake/crack on the east face. Small nuts and a small cam or two protect the awkward layback start of the route. Where the crack fades out clip a bolt, then continue up the powerful underclings with good gear, including a small fixed nut. Now, tiptoe up the delicate (

i.e.

: desperate!) slab passing four bolts to the two-bolt anchor on top of the face. One may want to save the #00 TCU as a final piece before the anchor. Enjoy!

Protection

Small to medium nuts, 1 each cams #00 TCU to #0.75 Camalot. There is one fixed nut plus 5 bolts en route to a two-bolt anchor at 80 feet. The belayer may want an anchor at the precarious stance beneath the route, which requires larger cams; #2 and #3 Camalots.