- Edit (TBD)
Description
This route climbs the thin seam that bisects the middle of the wall.
Technically G gear with great rock (for Smuggs standards), but given how short and bouldery the route is, backing up gear with nests is advisable.
Accessing this route to top rope is a breeze. There is small ledge on the climbers right that leads to a bolted rap anchor. A short 10 ft rappel gets you to the route anchors. You may want to bring two shoulder length draws for the anchor.
BE AWARE: there is a massive death block on top of anchor. It is easy to avoid, but do not pull on it or risk certain death.
This line was originally aided by Nate Vince, calling it Cellar Door A2. If you decide to aid it, please revisit your life choices and do not use pins or alter the rock in any way.
Location
To climb the route, start up the square cut chimney feature. After the large horizontal break, the climb progressively builds with mini cruxes between pods in the seam. Dig deep at the final crux and visit the margins of your mind.
Protection
Bolted anchor Gear: mostly small and medium wires, small cams (00-000) and offset cams (red/yellow and yellow/blue). One large cam (#4) helpful for large horizontal crack.