Heaven Sent

This route goes from wide crack to thin traverse to a hard roof mantle to a committing slab on thin gear and then you crux on two generously spaced bolts.

Neglected and dirty route that Kramar gives lots of stars in his guide. If cleaner and not quite so sandbagged (given 11b in guide), I might have considered this more fun.

To be clear, I don't think this is 5.11, but I could be way off. There seems to be an internal consistency within the grades of Leavenworth (and maybe the trad of central WA altogether). But this one felt way off. I climb a lot of granite slabs, and this felt harder than Poison Balance, which feels harder than any 12a I ever did.

It reminds me of 12c in Ceuse: bouldery, cryptic, and resistant, with similar runout, exposure (exhilarating!), and angle changes. Bravo to all the Central WA hardmen who climb these things. The rest of the country has no idea how hard you work for such low grades.

Start on the mossy 4 inch crack, then traverse across the pumpy traverse on dirty scrabbling feet. Then up into the super cool crack/corner/overhang. Climb out through the tighter seam (not the lower Purgatory one), and then sketch through hard to see placements, smearing up flaky granite. You'll hit a couple of generously spaced bolts, and a couple of (absolutely not 5.11-) slab cruxes.

mostly thin gear, and then two bolts at the top. naked hangers to clip into at top, so maybe donate some cold shuts, if you think of it. that would be nice.