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Peak Mountain 3

Electric Shitstorm

FA Abel Jones
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UPDATED 

Description

Stand on top of a boulder to clip the first bolt, then climb out the roof somewhat diagonally on good holds to a tough lip encounter, followed by a good rest. Quest up a little higher to clip a bolt, followed by a few hard moves to an undercling. Make a difficult clip, then pull a tough sequence to another good rest. Climb up the crack (doubles in .4 and .5 will work), then finish on the fun (though hollow) jug flake up high. CAUTION: if you fall in the 30 feet following the crux sequence, you may impale yourself on an aspen tree. It's quite a bit easier there, but the rock is a little hollow, so be careful.Apparently this is an old Abel Jones route. Not the best 12 at the Peaks, but a good one to do if you're running out of climbs in the grade range. The starting sequence is worth it on its own.

Location

At the far south side of the Middle Wall, a few meters climber's right of the Tree Routes in the big cave (which are a few meters climber's right of Flowrider).

Protection

10-12 QD, doubles .4 and .5 camalots.