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Peak Mountain 3

Cliptomania

FA Eric Fazio-Rhicard & Mike Head (1990)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

An improbable line up seemingly blank vertical face, Cliptomania features technical edging, sidepulls, and crimps. Your footwork and finger strength will be put to the test. Your tips will scream in pain. While unimpressed with this route from the ground, the delicate sequences earned my respect. The demanding moves keep me doubting and making evermore micro-refinements.

Location

Cliptomania is located on the north face of Tri-Level Spire; Prancer is immediately to the right; ET Arete on Rupley Towers is 50ft back. The surrounding environs are a little rugged and uneven.

Protection

6 bolts to ring anchors. The anchors are shared with Prancer.

The first bolt is 15ft off the deck and the last bolt is 20ft from the chains. The climbing in these sections is significantly easier than the tightly bolted middle but caution is still suggested. An optional 7th bolt belonging to Prancer can be clipped to ease the runout; personally this bolt seemed unnecessary and off route.