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Peak Mountain 3

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Description

If you are hiking up George Creek be sure not to miss this gem of a route.  Moderate climbing, steep rock, nice belay ledges and an awesome position make this route worthy of many more ascents.  The rock is a little grainy but by no means bad. we descended to the west and then hiked over Vacation Pass.  Don't let the name fool you, Vacation Pass was the crux of the day.

Location

This route climbs the long dihedral up the prow on the left side of the face.  From the snow, begin climbing at the left corner of the east face, aiming for an easy looking ramp about 100' up.  Follow this ramp right onto the large ledge system.  Climb up and right, following discontinuous cracks through the 5.10- crux pitch aiming for a hand crack.  After the hand crack, climb past the fun roof moves eventually pulling around the arete to the right and into the base of the dihedral.  Climb the corner for several pitches until the summit.  The last pitch in the corner passes some loose blocks.

Protection

Double rack to #4. We had one #4 and were able to bump it whilst in the dihedral, leaving smaller gear behind as pro. If 5.9 OW isn't comfortable for you consider bringing a second #4.


Routes in Mt Carl Heller and Tulainyo Tower