- Edit (TBD)
Description
This bolted face route, immediately right of Finger Food, is continuously difficult, tenuous, and interesting climbing for the first 30' after which it eases a bit to more straightforward JT slab work. Stem, palm, crimp and smear your way up the shallow corner until it disappears and a decent face hold and crimpy dike appear. Engineer a sequence to mount these and you can finally rest and compose yourself for the upper half of the pitch.
Location
Immediately right of
Finger Food
.
Protection
Bolted, but poorly, IMO. If you fall clipping the second bolt, you will deck. Ideally there would be another bolt between 1 and 2, but there isn't and the moves there could well be the crux. A bold lead for sure considering the insecurity of the climbing. Once the second bolt is clipped, the route is safe enough. I'd recommend either a stick clip or crashpad unless you are super dialed on 11+ JT friction and stemming.