We're giving this page a facelift!
Visit the previous versionto make edits.
Peak Mountain 3

Fancy I

FA Anne Church and Krist Raubenheimer (1955)
CREATED 
UPDATED 

Description

P1 - Climb the face to the crescent-shaped flake/corner and a fixed pin. Move up the corner a bit to a ledge (Williams' guide notes a 5.8 variation by climbing a corner to the right - never done it myself), then up to a tree. Climb the thin face (small gear helpful here), then straight up to a nice ledge, then diagonal up left to loose blocks and a belay, or head right to the bolts on Bunny.

P2 - I have only followed this, has broken rock and is not great (see comment below re: fridge-sized block). Climb the corner above the belay to a bush, pass it on the right, then move left under the ceiling to a corner. Climb a flake to access the corner (crux), and follow it to the top, then traverse right about 20 feet to a tree belay/rap station.

Location

Just left of Bunny below a crescent-shaped flake.

Descend by Uberfall Descent, to climber's right.

Protection

Standard Gunks rack plus Lowe Balls and microcams such as Wild Country Zeros or Black Alien.